Once upon a time before the invention of speed limiting cameras, the M25 orbital motorway that circumnavigates London was known as the playground of boy racers, but these days its the gateway to the 'new champagne' country.
Within a short distance of central London you can find yourself amongst sparkling vineyards at the foot of the SouthDowns, just a few miles from the sea.
In the past decade English Sparkling Wine has won a veritable sea of international awards, wowed the serious sparkling critics such as Serena Sutcliffe and Jancis Robinson and, due to a combination of increased expertise and favourable climactic conditions, become an international contender in bucking the current economic climate.
Although english winemaking originated in Roman times, it was only really revived in the 1950s when winemakers began planting mostly high yielding german varietals that were resistant to the harsh climate and produced off dry floral non-descript wines for locals who were used to drinking Liebfraumilch.
Today all across the south of England winemakers are concentrating on the production of quality sparkling wines using the traditional Champagne varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The local industry has gradually realised that the chalky soils, south facing slopes and warm climate of southern england produces similar growing conditions to those of Champagne.
Multi-award winner NYETIMBER was first out of the blocks releasing their first sparkling in 1997. CHAPEL DOWN and RIDGEVIEW soon followed suit. By 2011 Nyetimber plans to increase production from 70,000 bottles per year to 600,000 bottles. (Brits currently consume more than 10million bottles of Champagne per year - english winemakers produce only 300,000 bottles between them). The latest english wine star is CAMEL VALLEY which came 2nd in the world at an Italian sparkling wine competition in 2005.
Last weekend I got to compare and contrast Chapel Down Vintage Reserve BRUT (£16) and Ridgeview Bloomsbury Merret 2006(£21) so I can safely say that FIVE £ - the magic marker for retail wine sales in the UK makes a huge difference when it comes to the quality of English sparkling wine - Chapel Down was a pleasing floral drop with good acid - but it smelt and tasted of hawthorn and blackberries not bread and nuts like Champagne so you immediately knew that this was a morris dancer trying to do the can can. Having said that at less than half the price of average quality NV Champagne it does represent good drinking value. However Ridgeview's Bloomsbury cuvee merret is a completely different kettle of fish. This chardonnay dominant blend (62% chardonnay, 27% pinot noir, 12% pinot meunier) is light gold in colour with a very fine mousse. Its a lean mean bubbly with definite hints of pastry and apple - buts its baked bramley apple pie rather than fine french apple tart. The 2006 which is the latest release retails at £21 in Waitrose and represents excellent value for money - especially if you prefer to support national producers. Next post I'll be looking at an additional £5 for Nyetimber classic cuvee(£26) and Denbies 2004 Greenfields reserve at a bargain £15!!
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